The price of being an Indian.

"Well, Thats the price you pay for being an Indian!" I said; and her immediate reaction was "What! But how can they do that to you!"

I was trying to explain to my British girlfriend just how uncertain my job was! Why I didn't know where I would be going, though I hoped I would be going in a couple of weeks time! I was trying to explain the circus an Indian seafarer goes through before he can land a job onboard a ship!


In the initial stage of his career, no one wants to employ him because he does not have any experience!
India has a institutionalized training system. It is run by educational institutions. Companies do not launch specialized training programs, so at the end of college you have a lot of young graduates with academic knowledge but no experience! With no company to back them during their training, they are left to their own means to find 'experience'. The cadets and junior engineers then resort to all sorts of options. It is common to find young graduates risking their lives on ships flying the FOC, working below ITF wages (in some cases working for free, just to get some experience letters!) trading in high risk areas like Somalia and Nigeria without any risk cover, to the extent of working at positions they are not even trained for! They are proud of the fact that at least they have been on a real ship; as compared to the other few who have forged records and obtained fake experience certificates!

The entire process of recruitment is so morale breaking that it sets the tone as to what is going to happen during the rest of a seafarers career!

The absence of quality Indian shipping companies means that most Indian seafarers work for management companies. There is no permanent employment. There is no standard wage scale for a particular rank in a company. On the day of employment it looks more like a fish market with employers and seafarers bargaining benefits and deductions! I know of a company where the Chief Officer was paid more than a Master; and where the company had deducted 0.8 USD for attesting a letter!

The fact that seafarers work contracts, means there is no PF, no Medical or Health cover. The fact that your employer is different from the ship owner on whose vessel you will be working; implies that there is little concern for seafarers welfare onboard the vessel. On the other hand, as the only means of performance evaluation by the employer is based on the report of the senior; the juniors are more concerned about pleasing their bosses above everything else!

The lack of proper training, the attitude and management practices of crewing agencies, the poor support from the government and seafarers unions, the lack of reforms in the Indian shipping industry have all led to the downfall of Indian seafarers. The recent case of an Indian officer who died onboard an Indian flag vessel shows how grossly complacent we are with the lives of seafarers. In countries like Singapore, even a dogs death in a road accident makes it to the news. Americans report and mourn the death of every single soldier who dies in Afghanistan or Iraq, The loss of 10 jobs due to lack of business makes it to the news papers in the UK... and the Indian media is silent when it comes to Indian seafarers being held hostage in Somalia; the Immigration authorities turn a blind eye when foreign seamen work on vessels in India flouting visa norms, DG Shipping directives of minimum manning!

If today I have decided to quit sailing, It is only because of these grievances. I still love the salty air; the sound of waves splashing against the hull on a clear moonlit night. I love the sea; and yet I have come to hate the discrimination that we face; because of our color, our nationality and our biased system.

It is indeed a high price we pay for being an Indian.

2013; Its a New Year Resolution, all over again!

As I sit and watch the dawn of the new year, all that has happened in the past year flashes across my mind. On this day last year I was onboard UP Topazio in Brazil. We had come back from operation and dropped anchor just 2 miles off Copacabana. It was a little past 11 pm of the 31st. I was amused by the enthusiasm of the crew. At 10 minuets to midnight, I went on deck, awaiting the countdown for the new year. At the stroke of midnight, the ship blew its whistle. 12 short blasts on the ships horn. All surrounding ships were doing the same... Just about the same time the fire works began... They were one of the most splendid fireworks I have ever seen. Lasted a whole 17 minuets... Tonight, I saw a glimpse, and heard the crackers for at most under a minute! UK indeed seems to be suffering from a great recession!

Brazil, and Topazio was a wonderful experience. It was by far the worst ship in the company; and yet I managed to put in one of my best efforts onboard. A hole on the ship side, Sea water flooding in FO tanks, FW flooding in the Azimuth, Running the gear box on load without oil; running a generator on water... Name it, and I have seen it! It has been my best teacher so far... Topazio taught me that no matter what; Life goes on! That there is a limit to every man and everything. After that it will just crack up! At the same time I had the opportunity to experience a different way of life. I worked with some wonderful people, with a very refreshing attitude to life.
I saw the luxurious apartments with 10 ft. high walls, I saw the under developed suburbs where they would even welcome a stranger and offer him a cup of coffee! I learnt how people live a happy today without worrying too much about tomorrow. I learnt to be honest, to humbly admit a mistake, to face its consequence and learn from it so as to improve and do better. To be afraid of speaking a lie, and to make every effort your best effort. To have faith, and trust in God.
There is so much about Brazil, that perhaps I should write about it in a separate post. But I would strongly recommend everyone who can afford to, to visit the country at least once.

Learning a new language was another remarkable experience. The easiest way to learn a language is to visit its native country. To immerse yourself amongst its people. To be bombarded with the language from morning to night, so that you start to pick up the words, the pronunciations and the dialect. It is the key that opens the doors to a whole new culture and approach to life.

There is a famous saying, 'At the end of the game, the king and the pawn both go into the same box'. In India a famous Qawali says 'Khaali haath aaya thaa, Khaali haath jayegaa'... (You came with empty hands and you shall go with empty hands). Indeed to witness death up close is a life changing experience. You get a whole new perspective of 'life'! To watch the once so active and so loving body lying immobile. To wonder what that person would think if only they heard how they were being talked about at a time when they would need all the love and support just to have a reason to struggle to live! To go back home and think retrospectively if this is how you would wish your last days to be! I was a man of great dreams and ambitions, who thought money holds power and position earns respect! But this year my views towards life and living have changed. I no longer dream of accomplishing great tasks, but I try my level best in everything I do. I have become more honest, offended a few friends, I have learnt to speak my heart without fear. Earlier I had money as my goal, Now I see it as nothing more than a tool to achieve my goal.

I travelled to Arabia. Opened my mind to a new kind of existence. Coming back to languages, I would like to learn Arabic. Spend some time traveling through Egypt and Yemen. That is for the future. This blog is about the past, about 2012.

Going back to college was tough. A decision towards which I still have mixed feelings! However, it is a good experience. The festive seasons, the discounted sales, the short days and the cold nights... There is so much to learn in everything, if only you are open to observe what it teaches!

It was a pity that the year ended on the sad note of crimes against women in India. I have stayed away for so long, I find myself aloof to the politics; but to witness a common man being helpless in a metropolitan city of India does put me to shame. Oh! Dear people... How can I express my anguish without offending the very country I love! There is so much more I have to write! About happy times; about finally getting my cherished camera! about taking the long walks in solace!

I must write on each of these topics again; in more elaborate detail. For today, I will conclude by saying Thank You. For the hard and better times; for the joys and sorrows. They have all shaped me in the person I am today. I hope that all my experiences have helped in making me a better man today.

For many reasons, 2012 will be a memorable year.